By Auguste Escoffier

If the paintings of Cookery in all its branches weren't under-
going a technique of evolution, and if its canons may be once
and for ever fastened, as are these of yes medical operations
and mathematical strategies, the current paintings may have no
raison d'etre; inasmuch as there exist already numerous excellent
culinary text-books within the English language. yet everything
is so risky in those occasions of growth at any price, and social
customs and techniques of existence regulate so speedily, few years
now suffice to alter thoroughly the face of usages which at
their inception bade reasonable to survive the age — so enthusiastically
were they welcomed via the public.

In regard to the traditions of the festal board, it's but
twenty years in the past because the ancestral English customs begun to
make method prior to the more moderen equipment, and we needs to glance to the
great impetus given to vacationing through steam traction and naviga-
tion, so as to account for the sluggish yet unquestionable

In the wake of the call for got here the provision. Palatial hotels
were equipped, luxurious eating places have been opened, either one of which
offered their shoppers luxuries undreamt of theretofore in such

Modern society reduced in size the behavior of engaging of light
suppers in those areas, after the theatres of the Metropolis
had closed; and the well-to-do started to flock to them on
Sundays, on the way to provide their servants the mandatory weekly
rest. And, when you consider that eating places enable of looking at and of being
observed, due to the fact they're eminently tailored to the showing of
magnificent clothes, it used to be no longer lengthy ahead of they entered into
the lifetime of Fortune's favourites.

But those new-fangled conduct needed to be met by way of novel methods
of Cookery — ^better tailored to the actual setting in
which they have been to be practised. The admirable productions
popularised by way of the previous Masters of the Culinary artwork of the pre-


ceding Century didn't develop into the sunshine and extra frivolous
atmosphere of eating places ; have been, in reality, ill-suited to the brisk
waiters, and their shoppers who basically had eyes for one another.

The pompous splendour of these bygone dinners, served in
the majestic dining-halls of Manors and Palaces, by way of liveried
footmen, was once half and parcel of the etiquette of Courts and
lordly mansions.

It is eminently suited for nation dinners, that are in sooth
veritable ceremonies, owning their ritual, traditions, and —
one may well even say — their excessive monks ; however it is a trifling hin-
drance to the fashionable, quick provider. The advanced and
sometimes heavy menus will be unwelcome to the hyper-
critical appetites so universal these days; consequently the necessity of a
radical swap not just within the culinary arrangements themselves,
but within the preparations of the menus, and the service.

Circumstances ordained that I might be one of many movers
in this revolution, and i should still deal with the kitchens of
two institutions that have performed such a lot to convey it about.
I consequently enterprise to believe e-book containing a record
of all of the alterations that have come into being in kitchen paintings —
changes whereof i'm in a superb half author^may have some
chance of a great reception by the hands of the general public, i.e.

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1½ ounces vodka or vanilla vodka ½ ounce espresso or strong coffee ½ ounce Kahlúa ½ ounce crème de cacao 3 espresso beans Stir the liquid ingredients in a mixing glass with ice. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with the espresso beans. NEW CLASSICS 22 Nutty Martini Frangelico is an Italian liqueur based on a 300-year-old recipe incorporating an infusion of hazelnut, berries, and flowers. Here it delivers an aromatic whisper of hazelnut that harmonizes with the orange-vanilla tones of Tuaca.

Strain into the prepared glass. DELUXE FRUIT & HERBAL MARTINIS 29 Blueberry Mint Martini The quintessential flavors of summer are all here for the picking and, when freshly shaken, can be enjoyed in a lush Martini. If blueberries are not in season, use thawed and rinsed frozen blueberries. Lemon wedge Superfine sugar ¼ cup fresh or thawed frozen blueberries 1 ounce fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon superfine sugar 2 ounces citron vodka 1 ounce crème de framboise 3 to 4 fresh mint leaves Rub the rim of a chilled cocktail glass with the lemon wedge, and rim with sugar.

NEW CLASSICS 15 Apple Martini Desired for its sweet yet puckery over-the-top apple flavor, the Apple Martini has become a classic of the flavored Martini craze. It was purportedly first served at Lola’s in Los Angeles, where it was called the Adam’s Apple Martini, named after the bartender. For a real spiced-up version, switch out the regular vodka for Zubrowka Bison Grass vodka and add ¼ ounce butterscotch schnapps. 1½ ounces vodka (regular or apple flavored) ½ ounce green apple schnapps 1 ounce apple purée or apple juice ¼ ounce fresh lemon juice 1 or 2 thin slices of apple Shake the liquid ingredients vigorously with ice.

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